Appropriation belongs to the disempowered. It's about the control of identity.
When the empowered attempt to appropriate the culture of the disempowered it's an act of aggression, not appropriation.
I was really happy to read this.
I also dispute the notion that the record cover rip off was an 'homage.' It was basically a forced celebrity endorsement. Ian MacKaye and his music is revered in the skating and punk communities, on the same level that Lebron James is in Basketball, Mia Hamm is in Soccer, or Lance Armstrong is in Cycling. These folks are very well compensated - I wonder what kind of package Nike will offer Ian MacKaye.